FAQ About Fruiting Block Kits

Would you like more information about our Fruiting Block Kits? We’ve put together a list of the most FAQ’S.

Beginners should start with kits that are dependable growers and need the least amount of work like oyster and lion’s mane mushroom fruiting block kits.

Sawdust blocks that have had substrate additives added to create our fruiting block kits are used.

You should keep the block in the bag during the course of the growth cycle. There is only exception for this rule for shiitake block, and once it has mostly become brown it should be taken out of the bag.

Care is essential for mushrooms as to survive and develop, they require sufficient humidity and ventilation to survive and develop. Spray the exterior of your block over the cut region, water it at least once a day. If find that your fruiting block is dry, water more often or build a humidity tent or you live in a low-humidity environment, are growing mushrooms in the winter. Please adhere to the shiitake-specific instructions. Shiitake blocks demand varying levels of humidity.

This is quite normal; you seem to have a pretty active kit! If you’re cultivating oysters, lion’s mane, pioppino, or chestnut you may overlook the mushrooms that may be fruiting within your bag. Break them off and compost them to start over, if they’re easily accessible.

If you’re cultivating shiitake pinch off and compost any premature pins when removing the bag.

With a little perseverance and technique, although every kit should produce at least one flush of mushrooms, you can frequently produce a second or third flush. Once you’ve gathered your first flush of mushrooms, continue to spray your fruiting block kit every day. Cover it with a moist tent, if it seems like it could be becoming dry. It must be hydrated throughout the whole procedure.  There is no need to remove the block from the bag or have a second X cut into it. Again, in around 2 weeks you should notice the formation of young mushrooms (pins).

It’s a good idea to soak your block if there hasn’t been any development after a few weeks It’s very natural for it to take a bit longer for mushrooms to emerge with each succeeding fruiting. The kit became a little bit too dry during the first flush, it’s conceivable that. After removing the block from the bag, it should be placed cut side down in a basin of water. For most of the species, just 20 minutes of soaking is sufficient. Since the mycelium from Lion’s Mane is so fine these blocks tend to disintegrate if left in water for too long. Immerse your block for 5 to 10 minutes if you have a kit for growing lion’s mane while keeping an eye on it.

You don’t want any lingering water in your bag, so blot your block dry with a towel before replacing it. Let the block to drain by leaving it cut side down for another 10 minutes or tipping it around to allow excess water to drain.

Shiitake blocks should not be returned to the bag.

You may find them in the “Temperature Guidance” section below the product description. Each fruiting block kit product page includes a list of recommended temperature ranges.

After each harvest, the second flush will be smaller, the majority of kits will develop a second flush. Give your block a one-week vacation from spraying, before attempting another flush, and before resuming regular water spraying then soak it in cold water for 20 minutes.

If your house is really dry and you don’t have a grow room with regulated humidity, you might need to create a humidity tent to cover the over fruiting block. To achieve this, cut several 1 1/2-inch holes all over a loose-fitting plastic bag. After that, set it over the fruiting block (which is still in its bag). Be careful to spray the interior of the humidity tent at least once daily once it is constructed.

On the front of your Spray & Grow Kit box, the mushrooms are depicted at the perfect stage of development for harvesting. As a rule of thumb, mushrooms should be picked before their caps become concave or flat. Like in the case of a lion’s mane before they turn yellow and mushy. Keep a tight check on your kit to make sure you don’t miss the best moment to harvest! Mushrooms often grow in double size every day, they grow far more quickly than plants do, reach your hand around the mushroom cluster’s base and twist to collect. Your mushrooms should burst off the block with only this action. If you’d prefer you could even use a knife! Remove any further loose debris from the block, before beginning to spray once again for a second flush. A first flush might result in 1 to 2 pounds of mushrooms!

If mushrooms get dried out, mouldy, or otherwise unappetizing, it’s likely that mushrooms weren’t collected when they should have been. Send us a picture so we can see what could have occurred. Provide them with fresh air, or even try a fan! Long stemmed, stringy mushrooms with tiny caps most likely grow in high CO2 environments.

Your kit has customized sawdust with mycelium growing inside it. So, it probably not mould, but mycelium instead! It is your mushroom block’s mycelium, and it is completely normal and healthy. There might be a white, floppy material that looks like mould covering the block. Some species’ mycelium is more noticeable than others. For instance, Lion’s mane mycelium is often finer and more difficult to perceive, but oyster mycelium may grow into a very thick, leathery mat. If you’re still unclear of what’s developing on your kit Get out to us with a photo, and we’ll help you figure it out.

If your kit contains spots of black, green, or orange colour, it’s conceivable that mouldy packaging caused the damage. We’ll make things right if you contact us with a photo.

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